Virtual Magazine of Morocco on the Web
Morocco Week in Review 
September 5, 2009

Peace Corps volunteer on her way to Morocco.
Thursday, September 10, 2009  By Jackie Smith jsmith@citpat.com -- 768-4945

Alex Cash never pictured herself living a normal life after college. When the Jackson resident graduated from Michigan State University last spring, settling on a career and marriage were the furthest things from her mind.

To achieve the sort of life she'd hoped for, Cash joined the Peace Corps. She left Tuesday for training and is headed to Morocco for the next two years. ``I just decided to do something different with my life and lead a life that's, I guess, out of the ordinary,'' said Cash, 23. ``I just wanted to feel OK about going off the beaten path.''

Having never traveled abroad, she said she's thrilled about the opportunity to have a culturally fulfilling experience while working in youth development in the north African country. Cash said many of the skills she'll utilize in the Peace Corps came from tutoring and teaching English at a refugee resource center in Lansing -- something she started doing in January 2008. ``You have to use a lot of pictures and a lot of emotions,'' Cash said. ``I really feel there are universal signals that everybody can understand. I think those will be effective strategies in Morocco.''

Christine Torres, public affairs specialist for the regional Peace Corps office in Chicago, said evaluating applicants' skills and background takes time in order to place them with an appropriate Peace Corps program. The logistics in applying could take anywhere from six to 12 months, she said. ``Someone who is accepted into the Peace Corps does have to have a certain degree of education and skills,'' Torres said. ``In addition, there needs to be a certain motivation level to want to help others and be open-minded about new cultures.'' Maggie Trazin, Cash's friend of four years, recalled the difficulty Cash faced over the last year as she applied for the Peace Corps.

There were fingerprints taken for legal reasons and extensive medical examinations required. Cash even had to have her wisdom teeth removed before she could go. ``It was kind of a roller coaster application process,'' Trazin said. ``She took it like a soldier. It was easy for me to be there for her.''

Cash found out she would be going to Morocco about a month ago. She said she feels drawn to the area but is apprehensive of adjusting to the mostly Arab country. ``The only thing that makes me nervous is not so much being an American, but being a woman,'' Cash said. ``I'm going to do my best to protect myself by dressing conservative.''

She'll join dozens of other volunteers in an area just north of Rabat, Morocco, for initial training, which will end in early November. During that time, Torres said, Peace Corps members will stay with a host family.
``That's what really sets them up for success,'' she said. ``That is where they are trained on the local customs, especially for women in what they need to be aware of to keep themselves safe and secure.''

Cash will join about 345 other volunteers from Michigan currently serving in the Peace Corps, Torres said, and about 6,260 Michiganians who have served since the agency was established in 1961. Cash said she doesn't expect to come back too changed from the experience because of the efforts she made to branch out in college. ``What I'm hoping to get most out of this, among many other things, is more reliance on myself and more self-confidence,'' she said.
http://www.mlive.com/news/citpat/index.ssf?/base/news-29/1252591518267070.xml&coll=3&thispage=2
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2008-2009 agricultural season : cereal production up 98%.
Rabat

Cereal production in the 2008-2009 agricultural season amounted to 102 million quintals, that is a 98.3% increase compared to the previous season. A statement of Morocco's Agriculture and Fisheries ministry said Thursday that this production is distributed among soft wheat (43.4 million quintals), barley (37.8 million quintals) and durum wheat (20.3 million quintals).

Production of early fruits totaled 1.9 million tonnes (+12%), citrus fruit 1.4 million tonnes (+10%), olives 1 million tonnes (+17%), while the production of sugar cane and beet stood at 3.5 million tonnes (-8%).

As for the animal industry, production also witnessed significant improvements in particular for milk with 1.8 billion liters (5%), eggs with 3.9 billion units (5%), white and red meats with 490,000 tonnes (2%) and 400,000 tonnes (0.5%) respectively, added the same source.

Morocco’s exports of animal and vegetable products reached 770,000 tonnes, that is 3% increase compared to the 2007-2008 agricultural season. Exports of citrus, however, decreased by 17% to stand at 482,000 tonnes due to the effects of the global financial crisis and floods.
http://www.map.ma/eng/sections/home/2008-2009_agricultur/view
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Literacy lessons change lives in Morocco.
By Sarah Touahri 2009-09-09

Morocco renewed its commitment to fight against illiteracy, with educational programmes geared towards adult students. Morocco celebrated International Literacy Day on Tuesday (September 8th) by renewing its pledge to stamp out the problem of illiteracy. Today, according to the national education ministry, 34% of Moroccans aged 10 or over can neither read nor write, compared with 43% in 2004.

The report from the World Bank's education sector was damning. Of 14 countries listed, the kingdom placed 11th, eight slots below Tunisia and three behind Algeria. According to the education ministry, efforts are being made to overcome weaknesses in the emergency plan to improve education in Morocco.

Samir Bachir, a teacher, said the government must take action to improve teaching in Morocco if they want to develop the country. "Education policy proved to be a real failure," he said. "The report from the World Bank confirms this fact. We hope the emergency plan will be more effective than others have been. It is still too early to judge."

During the internationally-observed literacy day, officials highlighted the efforts Morocco is making to curb the impact of illiteracy, particularly among adults. Over the past seven years, 877,950 people have been taught to read and write in remedial courses provided by the state. The number of students enrolled in such courses has risen from 286,425 in 2002-2003 to more than 656,088 in 2008-2009.

The director of the campaign against illiteracy, El Habib Nadir, said the progress made in recent years greatly owes to efforts by educational institutions and civil society. One specific benefit has been an improvement in the quality of instruction, he said. Teaching programmes were re-adapted to meet the specific needs of adult students.

Sociologist Jamila Berdai said that literacy programmes make it possible for adults to change their lives – often for elderly women, who have shown great willingness to learn to read and write to change their day-to-day lives. "These women are becoming more autonomous and have more confidence in themselves," Berdai said. "They're managing to have a greater effect on their households."

Many recipients of this education, such as Hajja Tamou Jabilou, are happy to talk about their experiences. At age 62, Jabilou decided to sign up for the literacy programme in her district of Rabat. After the death of her husband and the marriage of her four daughters, there was no one left to help her. "I couldn't even make a phone call," she said. "If I wanted to speak to one of my girls, I had to disturb my neighbours. When I got a letter from the bank or a water or electricity bill, I felt so ignorant."

After two years of literacy lessons, Jabilou can now read and write and take charge of her life. Kebbour Belfaracha, 53, started lessons a year ago, following encouragement from one of his two children. He had never thought about taking this step, and believed he would never manage to learn. After the first few weeks, he got a taste for the literacy lessons. "Now I can read. The world has changed around me. I'm starting to read signs and notices. I now have a little time left to master reading the Qur'an," he said.

Many young women share their desire to escape the abyss of illiteracy. Hayat Maâouni, a 22-year-old housewife, has been taking lessons in a school close to the home of her employers, who have shown great understanding.

Previously, she had been working for a family who refused to offer any help. For years, she dreamed of returning to school. She spent just one year in school as a girl, due to the distance between her country home and the nearest school. "I can see my dream becoming a reality," she said, her eyes twinkling with enthusiasm. "I hope to complete the course, if circumstances will allow. I do not want my future children to have an illiterate mother."
http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/features/2009/09/09/feature-03
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Forum gives young Moroccans tools for social change.
By Siham Ali for Magharebia 2009-09-10

Young Moroccans exchanged ideas and mingled with their peers at the first-ever Civil Society Forum in Rabat. Some 200 young Moroccans from sixteen regions around Morocco attended the first Civil Society Forum from September 8th-12th in Rabat. The forum was organised by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), with co-operation from the youth ministry, under the theme "Mobilise, plead, change".

According to Robert Jackson, chargé d'affaires at the United States Embassy, the goal of the event was to encourage young people to become effectively involved in political and social life and to reinforce the values of democracy, rule of law and good governance. In the coming years, the event will help to establish a space for exchange, dialogue and debate between Moroccan and American youth, with the involvement of some young American members of the Peace Corps.

Karima Ghanem, director of the Civil Society Forum, said the young participants came from NGOs and that the vast majority were university students. This forum, she continued, will aid them in improving their communications and have an impact on their associates. Youth and Sports Minister Moncef Belkhiyat said at the opening ceremony that the meeting was aimed at promoting young people and giving them an opportunity to express themselves. He said this initiative will make an undeniable contribution to setting up young people as real actors for change.

Discussion at the forum centred on a number of issues: participatory democracy, local management, social mediation, and communication for social change, among others. The young participants appreciated the initiative. Mohamed, a young man from Salé, said this kind of seminar allows young people to find out how they can access information and develop their abilities. "They teach us to persevere, and to be active," he said, adding that exchanges with the young Americans were proving fruitful, enabling them to see where each person's interests are focussed.

Rachid Belghiti from the Young Moroccans' Forum for the Third Millennium said that young people from different backgrounds need time together to discuss the communal charter and local policies in order to become active participants.

The chairman of the Young Moroccans' Forum for the Third Millennium, Abdelwahed Ziat, said it was necessary to involve young Moroccans in the developmental challenges facing their society. Rachid Badouli from the Orient-Occident Foundation said young people must immerse themselves in the principles of critical thinking if they are to be able to mobilise themselves behind social projects.

According to USAID, the success of the event demonstrates a great desire among young people to meet together and discuss their concerns. The American agency was unable to accommodate all the young people who wanted to take part in the Forum, receiving two applications for every seat.

Sociologist Samira Kassimi said that young Moroccans need to express themselves to one another so that others can hear their concerns. "In Morocco, the culture is to keep quiet and not to express your feelings or your worries," she said. "From an early age, we force children to be silent. Fortunately, young parents have started to change that culture." For young people in Morocco to flourish, Kassimi said, efforts like these must be stepped up.
http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/features/2009/09/10/feature-01
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Morocco's world Jews convene in Essaouira pilgrimage.
Essaouira, western Morocco

Hundreds of Moroccan Jews from the four corners of the world are convening in the Atlantic city of Essaouira for the Hiloula of Rabi Haim Pinto. A warm welcome was reserved to the pilgrims, who came from different countries to take part in this yearly four-day religious gathering, but also to "renew, like every year, their attachment to the alaouite throne (of Morocco), and pray for peace in the world," rabbi David Pinto said.

Speaking on the event, Essaouira governor, Nabil Kharroubi stressed the "rich significance" of this moussem, which "enables us to share what we have in common; our heritage and hour history, which were shaped by our ancestor for centuries. "This heritage and this history were founded by our kings, and H.M. king Mohammed VI is its present guardian, who works daily so this shared heritage would be protected and transmitted to the future generations," Kharroubi said. He underlined that Morocco, faithful to its history and traditions, “provides an example of openness, diversity, cohabitation and a shared land.”

Hiloula is also a successful example of social and civilisational integration, said the chairman of the city hall, Mohamed Menguet. Rabi Haim Pinto, who died in 1845 at the age of 96, has managed to achieve the great dream of building a synagogue in Essaouira, in which he spent his days praying and teaching Torah. http://www.map.ma/eng/sections/social/morocco_s_world_jews/view
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Morocco's fight of violence against women part of strategy aiming gender equality .
Rome

Morocco's fight of violence against women is part of the country's strategy towards guaranteeing gender equality, Minister of Social Development, Family and Solidarity, Nouzha Skalli said on Wednesday. The official, who was speaking at a G8 conference on violence against women, stressed "the empowerment and habilitation of women is a top concern and priority of the political agenda that stems from a political will," adding that such a will involves the different players and mobilises the civil society.

She noted that this violence, which remained as a taboo for a long time, is today subject of the attention of the public authorities and the civil society in Morocco, underlining that the north African country has made large steps towards institutionalising the fight against this plight.

The minister also reviewed the various actions taken by Morocco to guarantee gender equality, including the new Family Code, which provides for equal rights and responsibilities in the family household; the nationality code, which enables a Moroccan mother to transfer her nationality to her kids; and the criminal code, which incriminates sexual harassment in the workplace.

Skalli deems that the issue of sharing responsibilities between men and women, and setting up a man-woman partnership for development and equality of chances is the best way to overcome development hindrances, including violence against women. She also recalled the election, in 2002, of 35 women MPs, and the appointment of 7 women ministers in 2007, adding that 3,428 female local representatives were elected in the June 12 local elections.
http://www.map.ma/eng/sections/social/morocco_s_fight_of_v/view
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Essaouira, Morocco: The stage where everyone is a star.
The theatrical Moroccan city of Essaouira gives John Gimlette a taste for local drama.
By John Gimlette / Sep 2009

At the end of the rue Moulay Ismail, there's a tiny square walled in by minarets and vast, Romanesque doorways. It was one of my favourite places in Essaouira. Although nothing ever happened there, there was always the feeling it might. Five knobbly alleys emptied into it, and – at any given moment – it felt as if Desdemona might appear, or a pair of duellists, or the Duchess of Malfi astride a pantomime horse.

And that's what I love about Essaouira. In the absence of real drama, the extras steal the show. Everyone's at it. This is a city of costumes – cloaks, fancy slippers, hoods and great ropes of amber and jewels. Standing on the corner of Moulay Ismail, it's like watching an epic that's about to begin. A group of minstrels jangles past, followed by a man with a donkey. Then come a tinker, a boy with a goatskin drum and a policeman. Often, too, a fisherman cycles by, with a giant eel across his shoulder.

As to why Essaouira has ended up like this, it's all to do with walls; thick walls made out of mountains and bright orange sand. They run all around the city and ensconced within them is a honeycomb of alleyways, houses and mosques. Beyond the ramparts, there's the desert, the furious Atlantic and a beach as far as the eye can see. But, on the inside, it's a different story.

The walls have made the city into a stage. No cars are allowed, so lives are lived on the street. Every kasbah and every square is like a little set, and beyond it, everything's compacted, as if it were backstage. There are no gardens or parks; the streets occasionally vanish into caves. One alleyway, in the woodworker's souk, was so tiny that I could only get through by bending double, and scuttling like a crab.

Bread was still 8p a loaf, and the herbalists sold dried hedgehogs and leaves for Expulsion les gaz. "Are the mules real?" asked our toddler, Lucy, "and what about the swords?" Once, we came across a group of languid Berber tribesmen, armed with metal rods; they were the drain un-blockers, waiting for the city to seize. Another time, a man as thin as a lizard tried to sell us a multi-barrelled inkwell. "Three-hundred years old!" he cackled. In the end, we paid £10 for it – not because we believed him but because everything about the moment was far too rare to let it pass.

We were not, it seems, the first foreigners charmed by Essaouira. The Romans loved it. After them came Berbers, Portuguese, British Jews, Frenchmen and hippies. Orson Welles saw Essaouira for what it was: the set for Othello. All he needed to do was take off the lens cap and set the camera rolling.

Naturally, in this city of actors, not everything was quite as it seemed. I came across brand-new muskets, concrete fossils and a Roman coin stamped "Queen Elizabeth the Second". Even the city itself is not as medieval as it likes to think. It was built in 1765 by one Sultan Sidi Mohammed.

But whatever the century, Essaouira is a spectacle that has to be enjoyed by sleeping right in the centre. To do this, we took a pretty little house called Dar Edouard. It had tiled floors, old knotty rafters and a roof terrace from which we could hear the surf, bursting like bombs against the city wall. Our neighbours were so close it sometimes felt as if I could just lean across the street and help myself to their couscous.

I enjoyed Essaouira almost as much by night as I did by day. At dusk, in our alley, there'd be a last flurry of football and drums, and then the sound of sandals and hooves, heading for home. On the main street, Independence, an old carriage would creak away, lit only by a candle. Then a treacly silence would descend on the city, which would flicker with tiny fires as the watchmen took up their posts. Near dawn, I'd be vaguely aware of gulls and muezzins announcing the day, and then nothing until the sandals again and the smell of bread drifting up the alley.

Most mornings we went down to the harbour. It was living proof that Essaouira is not merely a feat of amateur dramatics. Here, crammed into its own vast ramparts is Morocco's third largest fishing port. The boats are so densely packed that they look more like a heap than a fleet. If you wanted to, you could run straight across the harbour leaping from skiff to skiff.

For our last few days we moved out to the beach. A boy with a handcart helped us carry our things. On the way, we passed the public tap where his family drew their water. He told me that life was good here, that he didn't eat iguanas and that one day he'd go and watch Arsenal.

After the compactness of the city, the beach felt endless. I suppose that, somewhere it did end, but, most of the time, the sky and the great, wet flats of sand just seemed to merge. Camels and horsemen would pass and then take all morning to shrink to nothing. Even for the locals, this sense of space and light was overwhelming. Some broke out into vast games of football (the pitch half a mile long), while others took to the prim little cafés along the promenade, rendered mute, it seemed, with disbelief.

Our new hotel, the Ocean Vagabond, had also absorbed a little of this luminosity. Although it had a small, purple swimming pool and the staff crept around in black pyjamas, everything else seemed to glow. The walls blazed with whiteness and glass and there were huge coloured cushions around the fire. Even the rooms had sunny names, like Lombok and Bali.

And that's the thing about this city. You can call it something funny like Mogador (as the French did) or trim it in zebra skin (as the Vagabond does) but it's still unmistakably Essaouira: the greatest show on north-west Africa's Atlantic Coast. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/africaandindianocean/morocco/6138665/Essaouira-Morocco-The-stage-where-everyone-is-a-star.html
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