Virtual Magazine of Morocco on the Web
Morocco Week in Review 
August 23, 2008

Peace Corps assignment takes traveler to Morocco.
MICHELLE NOLAN, THE BELLINGHAM HERALD, Aug, 18, 2008
At age 21, Kara Hanley has a huge map of the world with pins stuck in the numerous countries she has visited. Now Hanley, already an author and a prize-winning poetry slam performer, is set to stick in the most meaningful pin on her map.

In September, she will fly to New York and learn where she will serve the Peace Corps in the North African nation of Morocco, a former French colony. Since she speaks fluent French, she isn't worried about a language barrier.

Hanley, a 2005 graduate of Squalicum High School, needed only three years to earn her English degree at Southern Oregon University, in Ashland. Her parents, Ed and Sally Hanley, live in Bellingham.

Question: You say you're shy, so what accounts for the half-dozen poetry slam awards you've won the past year?
Answer: I still feel pretty shy when it comes to social situations, but a poetry slam is like getting up and performing in a music show. I'm an experienced guitarist who plays blues and jazz.

Q: What does it take to win a poetry slam?
A: You have three minutes to share a poem with the audience and there are five judges who score you from one to 10, with one being the highest. The middle three scores count. You're judged on presentation, emotions and the quality of your poem.

I got my start performing at Stuart's and Fantasia in Bellingham in high school. I've won poetry slams in Ashland, Corvallis, and Bend, and made the finals at the big Eugene slam. I was second at Rogue Valley.

Q: Were you nervous performing in front of large audiences?
A: I really was nervous at first, but then I would tell myself, "Yeah, this is where I should be!" Poetry slams draw 200 or 300 people, with prize money at stake, and these people are really into it.

Q: And you've found time to write a short novel?
A: It's titled "The Revolution Wagon" and I self-published it in June. I also drew the cover.
It's a dramedy. The theme is what could happen if the gap between left- and right-wing political parties got too wide. My protagonist is a girl who hates war and her father works for the president.

Q: Can your book be ordered?
A: It's $12.50 online at www.cafepress.com/karahanley.
Q: What will you do in Morocco?
A: I'll teach English and work in community organizing at a women's community house.
Q: Will you feel comfortable covering most of your body, since you'll be living in a Muslim culture?
A: I'll be OK except for the heat. I'll be living with host families for two months while I find a place for myself. I've traveled around the world so much, to more than 30 countries, that I feel I have enough street smarts to keep myself out of trouble.

Q: How did you get the travel bug?
A: When I was a kid my family hosted an exchange student from Taiwan. I went to visit her in Taiwan when I was 17, and that's how it all started. Africa will be the fifth continent I have visited, and I want to travel throughout life. http://www.bellinghamherald.com/102/story/501099.html
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Morocco July inflation at 5.1 percent yr/yr
Mon 18 Aug 2008,  RABAT (Reuters)

Moroccan consumer price inflation rose to a year-on-year 5.1 percent in July from 4.7 percent in June, official figures showed on Monday. The annual inflation rate was 5.4 percent in May.
Food costs, inflated by soaring world commodity prices, had risen 9.1 percent compared with July last year, the High Planning Commission said.

On a monthly basis, consumer prices were up 0.2 percent in July versus June as transportation costs grew 5.6 percent, although there was a 0.1 percent decline in food prices, the Commission added.

In June, the government said it forecast annual inflation of 2.7-2.9 percent, up from an initial estimate of 2.0 percent.

Financial authorities and business leaders are worried that higher inflation may prompt the Central Bank to hike interest rates, which would stifle growth, which the government is striving to promote to create jobs and reduce mass poverty.

The government expects the economy to grow by 6.8 percent this year from 2.7 percent last year and at an average of 6.3 percent annually over the next four years.
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Beyond Marrakech: Morocco's magic works its charms. Markets and kasbahs compete with giant dunes, grand cuisine, stunning mountains
Sunday, August 17, 2008 JUDE TOWNEND The Associated Press MARRAKECH, Morocco

Morocco is probably best-known to American travelers for such cities as Fez, Casablanca and Marrakech. But this country in the northwest corner of Africa is actually a place of dramatic variety. On a two-week or even one-week visit, it's feasible to fit in a trip to a major city or two, in addition to exploring rural areas.

You might explore undulating desert dunes, the magnificent Atlas Mountains, or a tranquil beach like those found near Agadir. Or visit the Volubilis Roman ruins near Meknes, the dinosaur footprints near Azilal, or eerily quiet Berber villages around Imlil, at the base of Mount Toubkal.

The ancient city of Fez is known for its architecture, alluring medina (the old part of the city) and Karaouine Mosque and University, dating from 859. In Marrakech, by day you can explore the Saadian tombs and the luscious Marjorelle Garden, and by night the famous Djemaa El Fna square, with its food stalls, entertainers and peddlers.

In Casablanca, the modern, giant Hassan II mosque looks as if it's melting into the sea at sunset. Fans of the famous 1942 Humphrey Bogart-Ingrid Bergman movie should head to Rick's Cafe, opened by former Oregonian Kathy Kriger in 2004. It's a marvelous evocation of the film.

But Americans living in Morocco advise that there's no such thing as a "must-see" list.
"There are many places beyond Marrakech that people should consider putting on their agenda," said Vanessa Noel Brown, from Washington, D.C, who has been studying in Rabat, the capital city, on a postgraduate scholarship since last September.

The U.S Department of State warns that the "potential for terrorist violence" in Morocco is high. But the number of American visitors to Morocco is slowly increasing, according to statistics from the tourist board and the U.S. Embassy here. In 2007, 131,000 Americans visited, 13 percent more than in 2006, when 115,000 Americans arrived.

"Americans like Morocco -- they get a taste of the Arabic world, without having to go to the Middle East," said Yassine Naciri, who works at a mid-range hotel in the old part of Marrakech, the tourism hub of the country.

His hotel, Marhbabikoum, like many, is the of the traditional riad style: quaintly decorated rooms built around a tiled courtyard, gently lit by candlelight in the evening.

The best riads are complete with an in-house hammam, an opulent version of traditional Moroccan communal bathhouses.

"Take me to the kasbah"
It is also possible to stay in a restored kasbah. Hundreds of the former fortresses of the most important families are scattered around the nation. Some stand empty now, while others have been turned into luxury hotels. But budget travelers can also find cheap hostels and guesthouses all over the country, for as little as $10 a night.

Foreigners can expect to attract attention, especially in the more touristy areas, where touts -- people who offer unsolicited services for tips -- are desperate for business.

Those worried about language difficulties should be reassured that English is more and more widely spoken, according to Hamid Khairi, founder of the Morocco section of CouchSurfers, the popular U.S-based accommodation swap Web site, an option for those traveling on a shoestring.

"But basic French is useful," he added.
The main language, the Moroccan Arabic dialect known as derija, is quite different from modern standard Arabic, even posing problems for native Arabic speakers.

To confuse things further, many Moroccans also speak one of the Berber languages, Tachelhit, Central Atlas Tamazight or Tarifit.

Mouthwatering foods
Morocco's culinary splendor needs little translation, however; the superb fusion of French and Middle Eastern fare speaks for itself.

The day starts with a spectacular array of patisserie (as little as 25 cents at the street stalls), accompanied by qehwa bil halib (coffee with milk) and the startlingly good aseir limun (orange juice).

Lunch is couscous, or tagine -- the name of both a rich stew and the dome-shaped terra-cotta pot in which it is cooked.

To fill the gap between meals, a le gouter of coffee or tea and cake might be taken at 7 p.m.
Moroccan dinner, normally eaten around 10 p.m., might be harira (soup with tomato and lentils), or perhaps an omelet and bread.

The renowned sugary mint tea is drunk throughout the day, and at greater frequency the farther south you go. With the exception of hot drinks for which the water has been boiled, drinking bottled water is advisable.

Explore, with respect
Islam is central to Moroccan life and on the main religious day of Friday, shops and businesses frequently shut for a good portion of the afternoon, also allowing time for families to eat couscous together.

While it is not necessary to cover hair, or put on the djellaba, the long traditional gown, women may want to dress modestly in respect of local customs.

Adriana Valencia, a postgraduate scholar from the University of California, Berkeley, who lived in Rabat in 2006 and often returns, urges visitors to explore a little.

"Just ride a bicycle from Rabat to Essaouira, and stop in basically every small town and city in between," she said.
If a bike sounds a bit strenuous for a vacation, hiring a car and driver is always an option. For travelers saving their dirhams (the local currency, about seven to the dollar), sharing a "grand-taxi" which seats two in the front, and four in the back, is the most convenient way to get between towns and villages.

The smaller petit-taxis, a different color in each town, are limited to three people, and Moroccan law does not allow them to leave their designated city.

Buses are to be found in the town gare routiere, and the mainly efficient trains run between major cities. Those on a bigger budget can take a four-wheel-drive vehicle, known locally as a quatre-quatre, on a tailor-made tour.

When, where to go
Choosing the best season to visit really depends on where travel is planned. The High Atlas Mountains are best walked in spring and autumn. Farther south, nearer the desert, summers can get unbearably hot. It's a bit chilly year-round on the Atlantic Ocean, but beaches are at their warmest in July and August.

In addition to Fez, Casablanca, Rabat and Marrakech, it is worth considering visits to Essaouira for a glimpse of a coastal town with a rich architectural history, and Agadir, where you can start a trip along the coast, eat sumptuous seafood and perhaps head out to the Anti-Atlas Mountains.

Other places worth seeing in the countryside include:
Chefchaouen, a pretty, quaint town, where the houses are painted blue, and which you can use as a departure point for exploring the rural north.

Zagora, a small town next to the desert that can serve as a starting point to visit the villages of Tamegroute and Amezrou, and mounts Zagora and Azlag.

Merzouga, a small village reached via the town of Rissani, which provides accommodation within walking distance of Erg Chebbi, Morocco's largest sand dune.

Ouarzazate, where you'll want to visit the kasbah, then head to the impressive Todra and Dades gorges.
And if you get homesick, you can even find a slice of stateside life in Morocco. Just hunt out the restaurant offering "Pizza Ga l'Americaine" near the Hassan Tower in Rabat.

"I was walking past one day and just caught this whiff of New York pizza -- it was unmistakable," Valencia said.
The pizzeria's owner, Moroccan Max Labdi, was a New York cab driver for four years before coming home to set up the business.

"The American pizza is the best in the world," he said. "It just needed to come to Morocco."
Details: www.visitmorocco.com or 212-221-1583
http://www.oregonlive.com/travel/oregonian/index.ssf?/base/travel/1218601547133970.xml&coll=7 ---------------------------------------------------

"Holidays for all" brings joy to thousands of Moroccan children.
By Sarah Touahri 2008-08-20

The "Holidays for All" summer camps for disadvantaged Moroccan children have been well received by the public and the government, which plans to expand the programme in the coming years.

For the sixth summer running, Morocco's Ministry for Youth and Sports has organised holiday camps for children and teenagers from disadvantaged families. The quantity and quality of activities on offer has improved and the number of children benefiting from the programme has risen from 49,000 in 2002 to 200,000 in 2008.

The programme is a partnership between the Moroccan government and a number of local charities, designed to give Moroccan children from lower-income families more options for the summer months of July and August.

Mohamed Kartiti, general secretary of the office that oversees the holiday camps, has said the programme consists of creating an educational, cultural, social and economic dynamic during the summer holidays.

"Since it was launched six years ago, the national 'Holidays for All' programme has achieved a number of objectives, particularly the increase in services available to the children during their summer holidays, and space being made available for holiday camps," he said. The charities which run the camps enjoy support from the ministry for setting up the summer facilities, arranging the children's travel and meals and providing staff, training and equipment.

Those who have benefited from the programme have expressed satisfaction with the operations.
"My children have never travelled, because I don't have the money for it," said Hanane Badran, the mother of two children who recently spent ten days in Ifrane. "Thanks to the 'Holidays for All' programme, they have just had the time of their lives in the company of their friends."

Souad Batali, whose 12-year-old daughter attended a camp in Tétouan, agreed.
"She came back glowing and full of life. She also learned a lot of things, including songs and patience."
Because of the programme's past success, both the public and the government are interested in increasing the role summer camps play in children's personal development. Officials say that well-equipped camps staffed with well-trained individuals could provide children an opportunity to reach their full potential through travel, meetings, exchanges, educational activities, sports, cultural exchanges and volunteering.

In order to achieve all these goals, MPs say the entire holiday camp setup needs to be reformed. To that end, Minister of Youth and Sports Nawal El Moutawakil has announced that starting next year, educational services at the camps will be strengthened in terms of training, service and leadership. A national debate will also be launched to work out a strategy to create large regional holiday camps and adopt a new approach to holiday management by 2020.

El Moutawakil added that charities interested in participating in the "Holidays for All" programme must have been active for at least three months, have a certain presence at the local, regional and national level, and include a summer camp programme in their annual activities.

15-year old Saâd Rakili who participated in the "Holidays for All" programme, told Magharebia that he would like to run one of the camps in the future.

"It's an opportunity for children whose parents cannot afford it," he said. "The operation has been a success thanks to the government, but also thanks to the charities and volunteers. So I want to be involved in the future, so that I can bring smiles to the faces of scores of children." http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/features/2008/08/20/feature-02
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Moroccan student astronomers receive NASA research awards.
2008-08-20

Moroccan students at Al Akhawayn University received NASA research awards for discovering three new "potentially hazardous" asteroids under the Killer Asteroid Project, MAP reported on Wednesday (August 20th). Student Hassan Bourhrous was also recognised by Harvard University for confirming the discovery of "near earth object 2007 UG6".
http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/newsbriefs/general/2008/08/20/newsbrief-06
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Morocco to provide school supplies for needy children.
2008-08-21

King Mohammed VI of Morocco announced a major operation to benefit one million needy children, providing them with textbooks and school supplies for the new school year, MAP reported on Wednesday (August 20th). The move aims at giving "new momentum to the generalisation of compulsory basic education, promoting equal opportunity and tackling the drop-out problem", the king said.
http://www.magharebia.com/cocoon/awi/xhtml1/en_GB/features/awi/newsbriefs/general/2008/08/21/newsbrief-05
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Simple cup of tea lifts traveler's spirit. Tea soothes the souls and raises the spirits in Marrakech, Morocco.
By Kirsten Harrington Special to The Seattle Times

I arrived in Marrakech late on a rainy Friday night, completely washed up from 20 hours of travel and a lingering sore throat. Our host Hassan served me a cup of mint tea that soothed my throat, eased my travel-weary body and lifted my spirits.

That one cup of tea in a small glass set the tone for the whole trip. It was a strong, sweet elixir so unlike anything I had ever tasted. It was comforting and reviving at the same time. Somehow, I knew I was going to like Morocco.

Walking through the souks in the medina of Marrakech, the smell of mint was heavy in the air. As I passed an old man with a leathery face, he smiled at me over the top of his cart piled high with mint. I gestured to him how I enjoyed both the smell and the tea his fragrant herbs provided.

Round trays with teapots and small glasses lined the shop counters and sidewalks, evidence of the many cups of tea required for each business transaction. Tea breaks happened everywhere, with groups of men crouched around low tea tables just about anywhere, from the bus depot to the street corner.

I started each day of my trip with an early morning jog, shortly after the sun came up. I was surprised at how early the city awakened, with shopkeepers hosing down the sidewalks and garbage collectors making the rounds.

I carefully made my way around the donkeys pulling carts of fresh mint to market in the early morning. The cafes opened early, with many Moroccans taking a cup of tea at a sidewalk café on their way to work.

One morning after I returned from my run, I craved a hot beverage. As the rest of the guests in the house were still sleeping, I decided against coffee since it would be too noisy to grind the beans.

Tea would be much quieter. I examined the remains in the teapot left out from our previous afternoon's tea. Would I be able to duplicate this delicious brew I had been enjoying?

I cleaned the teapot and set the kettle to boil. I found the box of Chinese green gunpowder tea, and the glass jar on the counter with a bouquet of fresh mint.

I put in the tea and a few sprigs of fresh mint with the stems broken to release the flavorful spearmint oils. I added a handful of sugar cubes, filled the pot with boiling water and waited. I held the teapot high in the air and poured the first cup. I then returned it to the pot, to aerate the tea and mix the sugar.

Hmmm. Not bad. Feeling pretty pleased with myself, I poured several more glasses and carried them upstairs to the other guests.

Kirsten Harrington lives in Spokane.
The Travel Essay, written by readers about an adventure or insight, runs each Sunday in The Seattle Times and also online at seattletimes.com. Essays, which are unpaid, must be no longer than 600 words and will be edited for content and length. E-mail to travel@seattletimes.com or send to Travel, The Essay, The Seattle Times, P.O. Box 70, Seattle, WA 98111. Because of the volume of submissions,
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/travel/2008116399_tressay17.html
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Souk it up.
The appeal of Moroccan food is easy to understand, writes Brenda Costigan. And the good news is that those succulent meats cooked in mouth-watering marinades are very easy to try at home.
By Brenda costigan  Sunday August 17 2008

A lot of Irish people travel to Morocco and delight in the souks, the hammams and, of course, the deliciously spicy cuisine. Yet we don't tend to try to recreate the dishes we have savoured there at home. Maybe it's because we think they'll be difficult. That needn't be the case. Start with the simple dishes below and you'll want to experiment further.

Morocco could be described as the doorway between Europe and Africa but unlike the herb-based cooking of Europe, Moroccan cuisine is characterised by spices. The scent of spices such as ground coriander, cumin and saffron combine with onion and mingle with the pungency of olive oil and the sweetness of roses and fruit to delight the senses.

BLACK OLIVE AND ORANGE SALAD
This is a typical Moroccan salad in which the vibrant colours contrast delightfully, as do the flavours. The fresh-tasting, juicy oranges and savoury olives make a refreshing salad to go with many meals. Serves 2.

You will need:
3 oranges
About 75g (3oz) black olives, pitted
1 tablespoon fresh coriander, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼-½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon paprika
Freshly ground black pepper and a little salt
Method:
Using a sharp knife, cut the peel from the orange, including the white pith, to reveal the juicy flesh of the orange.
Cut out the individual segments, leaving as much of the white membrane behind -- which is discarded -- as possible. Put the orange segments and the olives into a salad bowl with the chopped herbs. Whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice, adding the cumin, paprika, pepper and salt.

Pour the dressing over the oranges and olives and toss together. Leave to stand for a short while, for the flavours to mingle, and then serve.

SPICED COUSCOUS
This dish is easy to prepare as couscous requires almost no cooking. It makes a tasty accompaniment to many dishes. Simply add the couscous to boiling stock in a saucepan, take off the heat, cover with a lid and leave to soak and swell for about 10 minutes. Serves 4.

You will need:
400ml (14fl oz) light chicken or vegetable stock. See note
¼-½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼-½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
250g (9oz) couscous
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
50g (2oz) raisins
110g (4oz) cherry tomatoes, chopped
1-2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
1-2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, optional
Note:
Half the stock can be substituted with the same amount of fresh orange juice or a good-quality orange juice from a carton.

Method:
Put the stock and spices into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Stir in the couscous, then take off the heat and cover. After 10 minutes or so, fluff up with a fork, adding the olive oil. Add the remaining ingredients and mix together, seasoning with a little salt and pepper if you are using it.

MOROCCAN LAMB TAGINE
The word tagine means stew. This name is also given to the earthenware dish with a distinct pointed cover in which this and many other Moroccan stews are traditionally cooked.

However, any casserole or heavy saucepan is suitable to use. Most recipes suggest shoulder of lamb as it has a particularly good flavour, though leg of lamb can also be used.

The lamb is cut up into lean, bite-sized chunks. For a special finish, don't forget to stir the toasted almonds and fresh mint through the tagine at the end of the cooking time. Serve with cooked basmati rice, couscous or mashed potato. Serves 5-6.

You will need:
800-900g (1¾ -2lbs) bite-sized chunks of lean lamb cut from the shoulder
For the dry marinade:
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground paprika
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1-2 tablespoons fresh coriander, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce:
3-4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
½ pint vegetable stock
1 tin chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato puree
1-2 thin strips of orange peel
50g (2oz) ready-to-eat apricot
50g (2oz) ready-to-eat prunes, stoneless
½ -1 teaspoon fresh red chilli, chopped
To serve:
75g (3oz) whole, blanched almonds
1-2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
Cooked basmati rice, 50g/2oz per serving
Method:
Put the lamb pieces into a bowl. Add the ingredients of the dry marinade and mix well. Cover and leave for at least half an hour, but preferably longer, up to three hours. If keeping overnight, put the mixture in the fridge.

To make the sauce, heat the olive oil and fry the onion and garlic until soft. Lift out, then fry the marinated lamb in small lots until lightly browned.

When all the meat is browned, put it and the onion-and-garlic mixture back into the pan. Add the remaining sauce ingredients and bring to the boil. Transfer to a casserole dish and cover with a lid -- use a layer of baking parchment between lid and casserole to ensure a good fit.

Cook in the oven at 180°C 350°F, Gas 4 for one-and-a-half hours until the meat is tender. If necessary, reduce the heat.

Before serving, fry the almonds in a little olive oil until golden, then drain and stir into the delicious stew along with the fresh mint. Discard the bits of orange peel. This can be reheated.

BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB WITH MOROCCAN SPICES
Lamb is a very popular meat in Morocco and this recipe combines an American-style cut of lamb, ideal for summer cooking, with a Moroccan-style blend of spices. Butterflied means that the bone is cut out of the leg of lamb and it is laid out flat.

The meat is spread generously with the marinade mixture before cooking; the resulting flavour is delicious and easy to carve. The butcher will remove the bone for you, though it is not too difficult a task with a sharp knife.

Place the skin side of the butterflied lamb downwards on the roasting tin, with the flesh facing upwards. The surface of the flesh will be lumpy and uneven. If any of the lumps of meat seem larger than the rest, slit them with a knife. This ensures that the meat cooks evenly, and allows the flavour of the marinade to penetrate the meat.

This recipe will cook quite quickly, especially if you like to serve the meat a little rare. This joint could also be cooked on a barbecue.

I prefer to roast it in the oven first, then, if I am in the mood I will do the final browning on the barbecue. For older lamb, the cooking time will be longer. When buying meat on the bone, allow 225-350g (8-12oz per serving). Serves 6.

You will need:
1 leg of lamb, butterflied
For the marinade:
1-2 long, thin red chillis, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon paprika
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Handful of fresh coriander, chopped
Zest of half a lemon, finely grated
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Method:
If your roasting tin is not wide enough for the butterflied leg to lie flat, simply use a baking tin. Ideally, use a pestle and mortar to blend the marinade ingredients together. If you don't have a pestle and mortar, use a wooden spoon.

Spread evenly all over the surface of the meat. Cover the tin with foil and leave for at least an hour, or longer, for flavours to mingle.

To cook the meat, make sure it is at room temperature and not chilled from the fridge. You can roast at a high temperature, 210°C, 425°F, Gas 7, and allow about 15 minutes for every 450g (1lb) meat (off the bone), plus an extra 15 minutes of cooking at the end. Or, you can roast at a lower temperature, 180°C, 350°F, Gas 4, and allow about 25 minutes per lb, plus an extra 25 minutes at the end.

Remove the foil about half way through the cooking. If you want the lamb pink, check the meat when you think it is done by making a small cut in one of the thicker sections of the meat. Cook longer if you prefer it well done.

A meat thermometer takes the guesswork out of cooking meats!
- Brenda costigan
http://www.independent.ie/lifestyle/food-drink/souk-it-up-1457437.html
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